An ode to dreams at Louis Vuitton
Abloh designed clothes with his 17-year old self in mind and he created the collection as an ode to dreams. The location was transformed into a world as seen through the eyes of a child with a staircase to heaven, a house that sunk into the ground and a live band. Abloh transmutes the dress codes popularly tied to societal archetypes and patchworks them in new ways. The result is beautiful surreal designs inviting you to expand your horizons, live your dreams and discard the membrane between reality and imagination. You can see all the looks at louisvuitton.com
Reimagining the Bar Jacket at Dior
The next one up is the collection of Kim Jones for the House of Dior with its rich heritage and various emblematic codes that have survived the test of time. Although it is tempting to dive into all the reasons why I absolutely j’adiore the House, let’s talk about the one at hand.
In celebration of the House’s 75th anniversary Jones dug into the Dior Archives looking for the ultimate collaboration: a conversation with mister Dior himself. Jones combined formal and casual wear into the perfect Parisian chic look by reinterpreting the famous bar jacket into a men’s silhouette, suppressed at the waist with a tulip run-out at the hip. Coats, cardigans and jackets are embellished with floral prints inspired by the miss Dior dresses. The House’s bobby and leopard prints also joined the party. Furthermore, Jones collaborated with Birkestock to design the shoes for the show. The collection was shown against a backdrop of a life-size recreation of the Pont Alexandre III, representing a bridge between past, present and future. You can check out all looks on Dior.com
Nigo’s rebellious debut at Kenzo
The final collection I want to highlight is Nigo’s debut at Kenzo as Artistic Director. He is the first Japanese designer since the House’s founder Kenzo Takada in 1970.
Nigo, who was born in 1970, brought a mens- and womenswear collection that combined the House’s heritage and his own contemporary codes. The collection which was shown at the Galeria Vivienne where Takada held his first show, bridged east and west cultures, showing aviator jackets alongside kimonos, floral prints and sports inspired pieces. Nigo who started his own brand ‘A Bathing Ape’ in 1993 is known for his streetwear which was at the time seen as a rebellion against luxury and even as a form of counter culture. That someone like Nigo can now hold the role of Artistic Director at a large fashion house indicates just how rapidly the fashion world is changing. It is no longer good enough to design good clothes, designs need to have a deeper level of communication. Nigo brings a radical rethink of luxury fashion to the house and wants to build a brand story around ‘considered wardrobe’. For this purpose he intends not only to design ‘real-to-wear’ clothes but he’ll also be drip-feeding the line in limited edition drops. You can check out the collection at Kenzo.com
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The 7th and last collection designed by the late Virgil Abloh was a bomb of creativity. Abloh designed clothes with his 17-year old self in mind and he created the collection as an ode to dreams.
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