Simplicity and Japonisme at Fendi
In his Haute Couture AW2022 collection, Kim Jones brought a lot of Japonisme influence. He drew his inspiration from 3 places. Firstly, Rome, being the home to the House of Fendi. Secondly, Kyoto where the reproductions of the 18th century Japonese Kimono were woven. Finally, Paris where the trend for Japonisme was famously a source of western arts and crafts up until Deco times.
All the while keeping a distinct sense of simplicity, just like another one of the House’s well-known designers, Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld once said about Haute Couture, that from far away it may look like it is a tiny t-shirt. Then you get closer and are scared by the craftsmanship put into it. Jones’ collection embodies this vision. You can check out the full collection on Vogue.com.
Eighties Vibes at Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry’s Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli was inspired by a conversation he had with Christian Lacroix. Lacroix debuted in Haute Couture in 1987 and was heavily inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli. Roseberry found himself with some serious eighties nostalgia. A feeling that was strenghtened when Kate Bush’s Running Up That Hill made it back into the music charts because of the netflix series Stranger Things.
Finally, Roseberry was inspired by how Schiaparelli dressed herself. This meant body-conscious and body-obsessed eveningwear, everything built around the bustier and the corset. You can see the full collection on Vogue.com.
Celebrating History at Valentino
The Valentino Haute Couture AW2022 show was held onto the Spanish Steps in Rome, Italy. Valentino Garavani started his maison de couture in 1959 just a stones throw away from the iconic steps at Via Gregoriana. The whole collection was a very personal project to Piccioli as it was a conversation between him and the House’s history. Piccioli wanted to explore how much of himself there is in today’s Valentino and how much Valentino there is in his own identity.
Further the collection and the show celebrated diversity. Firstly, by means of the very different tailorings and cuts in the collection. Secondly by the diversity of models walking down the Spanish Steps. If you want to view the full collection you can do so at Vogue.com.
